As a seventeen year old living in Malibu, CA, surfing is a significant part of my daily routine. I’m always awake an hour before the sun pops up behind the beautiful mountain ridges of Southern California. Seeing the perfect waves, feeling crisp offshore winds and hearing the hoots and hollers of my closest friends motivates me to wake up at the crack of dawn almost every morning. I fell in love with the sport in middle school; I had always been surrounded by water in Malibu and developed a love for bodysurfing and fishing at an early age. I am blessed to be a surfer and have some of the best waves like Rincon, Lowers and even Malibu itself only a short drive away.I started surfing competitively at the beginning of high school. The feeling of making and losing heats gives me the motivation to try to become better everyday. Surfing competitively can also be very frustrating because it’s hard to agree with someone judging you, especially if you feel underscored. The emotions and feelings that surfing brings to people is what makes it so popular all around the world.What keeps me connected is the simplicity of it all. The heats and the scores drive me to be better and more aware while I'm in the water, but it's the ease and simplicity of the sport that keeps me on the board. If I’m not barefoot running from my board to the waves, you can catch me around a campfire in my Simple Shoes.
"IT'S THE EASE AND SIMPLICITY OF THE SPORT THAT KEEPS ME ON THE BOARD"
Photographed by Jordan Santamaria